Daffodils

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May 19, 2003

I did several Internet searches and found five sites that all gave the exact information. The link at the top and the one at the bottom each have great info. The one as the bottom says what is in the text below, all other sites seemed to have copied what they have to say.

Find a link for tulip information.

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University of Minnesota Extension Service has a page full of bulb information for tulips and daffodils.

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Unlike hyacinths and tulips, daffodils are not at their best in even rows or geometric beds; they lend themselves to irregular planting and random spacing. Give the bulbs room; overcrowding will reduce the bulbs' ability to produce more bulbs and flowers each year. This ability to spread is called "naturalizing." For examples of naturalized displays of daffodils, see the Murray Liasson Daffodil Collection and Daffodil Hill at NYBG.

Daffodils should be planted as soon as they are purchased in the fall; poor storage can damage the flower bud or actually kill the bulb. In the New York City area, daffodils arrive at local nurseries and garden centers in September and October. Shop early for the best selection.

Daffodils do best in ordinary garden soils that do not hold too much water. The bulbs tend to rot in wet areas. Choose a well- drained area or modify the soil with the addition of organic material and and extra drainage. The bulbs should be planted to a depth determined by the size of the bulb. The rule of thumb is to plant larger bulbs with the neck 4-5 inches below the soil surface and smaller bulbs with the neck 2-3 inches below the surface. If you are unsure, it is better to plant the bulb more deeply rather than too shallowly.

When planting the bulbs, a fertilizer such as bone meal, superphosphate or a specialized bulb formula can be incorporated into the soil. These fertilizers encourage root formation during the fall and winter. If you own a dog or have a yard frequented by your neighbor's dog or other animals, it might be advisable to use superphosphate rather than have the animals dig for the "bones" they think they have buried in your garden. In established plantings, the bulbs will benefit from a complete slow-release fertilizer applied in the fall.

Then sit back and enjoy the flowers next spring.

After flowering, the foliage of the daffodils should not be cut back until it has browned naturally nor should it be allowed to die back too early from lack of water. Next year's flower production will suffer if the foliage cannot produce enough food to replace the strength lost in flowering.

Learn more about daffodils at the Garden