Daffodils

Daffodils are a little bit more complex than daylilies. There are over 13,000 varieties of the daffodil. The daffodil, jonquils, narcissi, and paperwhite are all variants of the same flower. So I will try to answer the question in a general manner.
The daffodil should be the easiest flower you can grow. They should come back every year IF planted in the correct manner at the right time of year, and in a semi-rich soil. They can suffer from some of the same problems as the daylily i.e.: too much moisture, root competition, not enough sunlight, and poor soil.
They should be planted 6 weeks before the ground freezes, but after the soil temperature reaches 60 degrees. The soil should be rich in organic matter and they should be watered in at planting time. Also believe it or not, this is one flower that does better if you plant the bulbs on a waxing moon, not on a waning moon. That is you should plant the bulbs when the moon is going from the New Moon stage to the Full moon stage. Not when it is going from the Full moon stage to the Crescent stage.
If daffodils are planted in shade or partial shade, the blooms will be effected greatly. They may bloom for a year or two, but will eventually start to bloom less and less until there are no or very few blooms. This is one flower that loves full sun. Most bulbs will tolerate partial shade, but they will not produce as many blooms the following year. Make sure there is good drainage. If drainage is not good, dig the hole a little deeper and put sand or pea gravel in the hole before planting the bulbs.
Next on the list of planting tips is the depth you plant the bulbs. Plant them at least 8 inches deep. It does not hurt if you plant them an inch or two deeper. This will only cause them to be a day or two later in coming up. If they are planted to shallow, they can dry out, or freeze over winter. The drying out problem can cause the bulb to either die in the ground, or produce an inferior blossom in the spring.
The following is extremely important When raising daffodils.
(1) Never cut down the leaves. After the flower is finished blooming, all the food that was stored in the bulb is exhausted. It is through the leaves that food is sent down to the bulb to replenish it, so that it can grow more flowers for next spring. If you cut back the leaves too soon after the bulbs have bloomed, you'll reduce the number of flowers in coming years.
(2) Fertilize plants immediately after their flowering ends. Apply either a complete fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium or (I recommend) a complete organic fertilizer. Add this fertilizer to the soil where the bulbs have been planted (around the base of the leaves) and gently rake it into the top 1/2 inch of soil.
(3) Allow the bulbs to dry out (just quit watering) after the foliage begins to turn yellow. Most spring bulbs prefer dry soil during summer months.
(4) Dig, divide and replant the bulbs when they are crowded (usually every three or four years). Do this if the blooms are getting small. Small blossoms indicate that the bulb doesn't have room to grow and get large.
(5) Apply a light application of high-nitrogen fertilizer just as the bulbs begin to grow in the spring. Blood meal is a good source of nitrogen
Byron