Ironing

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Less ironing by preventing the wrinkles:

  Okay, you have already read over the hints below about taking the garments out of the dryer right before they are finished drying and tugging on the seam lines to get out the gathered look. (Do Not pull hard enough to break any threads!) Pull the collar tight from one top corner to the other and button the collar button after hanging up on a hanger. If you still need to press the item of clothing, it will be much easier to achieve that crisp well pressed look without all the spraying and fuss.  

  Let's back up just a bit; back to when you are putting those clothes into the washing machine. It might be a large capacity unit but don't overload or the clothes will not get nearly as clean as if you limited the load to a number of items that agitate easily and move freely in the water. The clothes washed in an overcrowded load will be much more crumpled than a smaller load.  I use extremely hard well water and find that liquid laundry soap eliminates the problem of dry soaps that just will not dissolve. If the washer you are using has a permanent press or gentle care cycle, use it. Never cram the clothes down into the machine, you don't fool anyone. The end results are what counts and if you have to spend extra time at the ironing board.

  Fabric softening sheets are a nice idea and you can even make your own cloth moistened with softening liquid to throw in the dryer. There is a world of difference in the feel of the fabric after drying though and you will have more garments wrinkled than when you put the liquid into the rinse water. Try the new Downy that is designed for extra softening and preventing wrinkles. It really does make a big difference. Our weather is often so dry that if I don't put a double dose of generic (twice the recommended) into the load, the fabric is scratchy and still full of static not to mention all those wrinkles. If it's a load of towels, wrinkles are never a problem.

  When you take the finished load from the washer, shake out each item before tossing into the dryer. Some garments do best when turned wrong side out while with others, it makes no difference. There is nothing like the feel of cotton so it is worth the extra effort to make it a less hated fabric.    

An update about puckering seam lines:

  With the purchase of two new shirts, I discovered a brand new ironing problem. Puckering seams. The label says that it is no iron, no way I say. The collar is crinkled  and every seam has at least a noticeable gathered looking effect. Most of this can be eliminated when the garment is taken from the dryer. Catch the shirt or pants when they are still a little damp at the seams but hot. Pull the fabric from both ends. Not hard enough to break any seam threads, watch and you will be able to see the pleats disappear.  Do the same with the collar, pull from both ends. Usually , the item will need some light pressing with the steam iron. Give it the same pull from both ends and hold flat while you take the iron across to encourage the fabric to give up its gathers and lay flat and crisp.

  After the article in the Parsimonious Living Section about finding great children's clothes that just needed some ironing, I promised to write instructions to make it easier for the learner to accomplish the task with satisfaction. There are notes at the end of this article on some ways you might get out wrinkles without ironing. It just depends on the fabric and how set the wrinkles.

  Unless you already have an iron, you must choose a store and shop to buy your own. The least expensive at the discount store will run about $25. Even the bottom of the line will have a non-stick surface, steam and spray and a special edge that is shaped to go around buttons. If you shop at a store that has better models, you will see that there are new models that feature such things as auto shut off in case you forget to turn it off or if it falls, either a light weight model or one that offers a larger water tank capacity, or a bottom that is shaped to lean back further and not be so proned to falling. There is a home model of the press type iron and it is very expensive. It would take lots of practice to do this type very well and only after getting professional instruction. It is more for someone who takes in ironing for the public with a greater than normal volume. 

  There are special metal plates made for laying down the iron. I have never considered I needed one although if I had one, I might enjoy it very much. I have indeed knocked off many an iron and ruined it in a brief moment. They are not made to withstand such treatment. 

  The small travel sized board is for away from home and emergencies and not something you would want to be using on a regular basis. Look for a full size model; most boards come with a good pad and your choice of pretty patterns, non-stick covers. I replace my cover and pad every few years when it starts getting thin in spots, creased and won't flatten out or the cover just wears out. 

  Unless you have nice clean carpet under your ironing board, you will need to spread a clean sheet or blanket out to keep your garment clean while you are ironing. Dark colors are worse to pick up lint and dirt from the floor.  My dad taught me to iron when I was about 10 years old and I have never found a reason to change the how or why. 

  Completely dry the garment so that the seams are dry. I keep a plant sprayer with a very fine mist and fill with distilled water. I use only the distilled water for the iron as well. When you are ready to start ironing, (shirt) spray evenly over the entire shirt while the iron is heating. Always fill with water before turning the iron on to the desired setting. If the garment needs only a light touch up, you will probably only need a low setting with no water for steam or spray. Read over all the information provided about your iron. Always empty any unused water and store in the upright position.

  Begin with the collar backside. I am right handed and I start on the right side and work to the left side. Iron the collar and the length of fabric right below it. Turn over the garment and iron the front side of the collar. Next is the yolk. This I start on the left and work to the right. Next is the sleeves. Start with the left sleeve and lay with the seam on the left side to where the crease will be about 1 to 1 1/2 inches below the center fold of the shoulder. (You can easily see that by hanging the shirt on a hanger. You will see the crease of the sleeve at the top.) Some people prefer a sleeve with no crease, get a special sleeve arm that will allow you to easily iron down the center of the sleeve section. 

  Short sleeves are easy and long sleeves take a bit more work. Most are different so practice will help a lot. Lay out the sleeve with the button opening side up. With the seam part folded where the seam is also on the up side, pull the cuff flat where the pleats lay naturally and iron lightly. Iron the inside of the cuff over the very end of the board; turn and iron outside. This is to keep from putting the crease in the cuff. I never found it very important and it would depend on how rushed I was for time. Reverse the process for the right arm. If you press a fold or wrinkle you need to take out, spray with water or it won't let go! 

  If I have the time, I allow a few minutes for cooling before I start on the next part. The right front is next and it will take some time for you to get comfortable with ironing around the collar button and the top part of the front. Move from the top to the bottom.  Next is the back starting with the right side moving across. At the center, most shirts have a pleat. Pull this area until it lays flat. Iron over the pleat and down about ten inches depending on the size of the shirt. Then finish the pleated area by ironing the bottom up to about 8 inches from the yolk. Finish with the left front, starting with the bottom and moving up. Hang loosely on a hanger or over the back of a chair where the shirt can dry completely.

  I always iron everything twice. Some fabrics don't need the extra effort or even spray or steam. You will come to know all of the fabrics of your favorite garments. You won't want to iron something that doesn't fit or isn't comfortable. After the first pressing, move the fabric about an inch, lifting it off the board just an inch or so and press the area a second time. Never iron over buttons. Most were not made to withstand the heat. Iron over as large an area as possible. Always set the iron down and flatten the area with your hands. Never leave any ridges between sections that will appear puffy and not flat. The more you make booboos and have to spray a new wrinkle and re-iron, the longer your chore will take. Always do ironing standing up unless you are accomplished. Raise the board to the height comfortable for your own use. Practice will make your better in the art. You will develop and natural speed and pattern to the production, reversing some of the instructions if you are left handed or not comfortable with the direction of movement. 

  Pants are the same basic system. Start with the left front pulling the crotch up to the center of the board where your can start ironing on the adjoining part of the leg. Keep turning the top around and iron the left rear and then the right making sure any pockets are flat. Most pockets won't need pressing from the inside. Just have flat when ironing the back or sides. Keep turning the pants around and do the right front next. Never iron over any zipper. If the zipper area won't lay flat, turn to the back side and iron flat. Iron the front up to the zipper. Zip the zipper to the top and press lightly over the front to flatten the entire area.

  For the legs, start with either, the outside bottom with the seam in the middle. Try to go by the crease that has already been set since sometimes it isn't exactly set with the seam in the center down the entire length. You probably wouldn't be able to change the crease and only add a new crease that would detract from the finished look. Always hang pants from the bottom on the special clothes pin type of pant hangers. It is well worth the investment to get plenty of good quality units so your pants aren't falling off into a heap on the floor after you've gone to so much work and effort. 

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  Say you've taken your clothes to the laundromat and forgot to take along the hangers for the hanging up the no iron clothes as soon as they were dry. You get them home and they are a mass of wrinkles and you sure don't want to have to iron them all. Place each on a hanger. Preferably in the bathroom, hang all these garments on the shower rod (not too much weight though!) Run hot water in the sink or tub to where there is a good amount of steam in the room, close the door and allow the clothes to let go of all the wrinkles they will.

  If you have your own dryer and have let it shut off and the clothes have set into new wrinkles, add a wet rag to the load or spray the material with water and let the dryer heat again and cool down before removing. This doesn't have to take but about 5 minutes. Some fabrics can be pressed by laying the garment flat and placing a fairly heavy object over it.