HOW TO COOK WITH GOAT’S MILK

By Arlene W. Correll

We no longer keep animals for food.  We used to keep all kinds when our five children were growing up.  We never kept rabbits or goats.  We get lots of email about recipes using goat’s milk.  So off I went on the “Great Goat Milk Recipe crusade.”

Goat’s milk is the most widely consumed milk in the world.

Smen (semneh, beurre ranci) is a traditional butter-based cooking oil made from sheep and goat milk. Preserved butter, with its deep, pungent aroma and distinctive flavor, enhances many of Morocco's savory dishes, especially couscous. It is an aged butter similar to Asian ghee, and is a prized flavoring ingredient in Moroccan dishes

In Morocco, smen (or sman) is still a delicacy. It is made by kneading butter with various decoctions of herbs, cinnamon, and other spices; the mixture is then cooked, salted, and strained like ghee. It is poured into jugs, tightly stoppered, and buried in the ground for months, sometimes years. Stores of the precious stuff are saved for special feasts. The smell is considered especially magnificent: a particularly aged pot of the family smen may be brought out of the cellars for honoured guests to sniff. The smen represents the riches of the house. The necessity of "doctoring" a perishable substance in order to save it in hot weather is in this manner turned into a gastronomic triumph, and hedged about with tradition and prestige. Other versions of clarified butter, called samna by non-Moroccan Arabs, are to be found throughout the Middle East.

In Lebanon, samneh is made from butter that has been boiled until the fat in the pan is as transparent as a tear (dam'at el-eyn). It is then taken off the heat and left to settle before being carefully strained through a fine sieve into sealed containers where it will keep for a year or more. Ethiopia has a spiced version, nit'r k'ibe. 

Collected from cows, butter can also be produced from the milk of buffalo, camel, goat, ewe, and mares. Cream is separated from the milk. The cream can be either supplied by a fluid milk dairy or separated from whole milk by the butter manufacturer. The cream should be sweet (pH greater than 6.6), not rancid, not oxidized, and free from off flavors. The cream is pasteurized at a temperature of 95°C or more to destroy enzymes and micro-organisms.

A goat's milk will generally have around 2 percent less fat than a Jersey cow's milk, as it is not richer in Butterfat than Cow's milk. Goat’s milk is also naturally homogenized. Thus, the fat globules in goat’s milk are much more naturally digestible and assimilated than milk from cows. Many people who cannot drink cow's milk can often drink goat's milk.

It is hard to manufacture butter from goats because the cream is dispersed in the milk. However, if a cream separator is used, goat's milk butter can be produced.

 Basically, there are two types of cultures: thermophilic (heat loving) and mesophilic (moderate temperature loving).  There are also many variations on these cultures, such as goat cheese mesophilic and fresh cheese mesophilic.  Each culture will give the cheese a different flavor, but the handling and preparation of the cultures is the same.  Buttermilk is a mesophilic culture and can be used as such.  Yogurt is a thermophilic culture and can be used to make cheese that calls for a thermophilic culture.  However, should you be  real serious about cheese making, you can culture your own true cheese starters or use DVI cultures.

Direct Vat Inoculates or “direct set” cultures that can be added directly to the milk with no need for re-culturing.  This is easier, but can be more expensive because they cannot be re-cultured.   However, if you make a lot of cheese, you can buy the DVI cultures in bulk and save a lot of time and perhaps money.  It is up to you.  Just remember that you cannot re-culture DVI cultures, you must buy a “regular” culture to prepare your mother culture.

You can store all your cultures, lipase powders and molds in sterile jars in the freezer.  Kept this way, they will last for over a year.  

Mesophilic Culture- MA 

Lactococcus lactis ssp. lactis  Lactococcus lactis ssp. cremoris  is used for hard and fresh cheeses: Cheddar, Colby, Feta, Chevre, and others . Use

1/8 tsp. per 1 gallon
1/4 tsp. per 2-5 gallons
1/2 tsp. per 5-10 gallons

Mesophilic Culture- MM  Lactococcus lactis ssp. lactis  Lactococcus lactis ssp. cremoris
Lactococcus lactis ssp lactis biovar diacetylactis  is used for fresh cheeses:
Camembert, Gouda, Feta, Blue, Chevre, and others where a buttery flavor and/or eye formation is desired.  Use

1/8 tsp. per 1 gallon
1/4 tsp. per 2-5 gallons
1/2 tsp. per 5-10 gallons

Thermophilic Culture- LH Lactobacillus Helveticas is used for Italian cheeses:
Parmesan, Romano, Provolone, and Mozzarella. Use

1/4 tsp. per 2-4 gallons

Should you elect to make your own cultures, here is what my research came up with.

Mesophilic Culture

Cheese cultures inoculate your milk with friendly bacteria.  This is what gives cheese its taste, and it helps the milk coagulate or turn into curds.  Mesophilic culture is for cheeses cooked at intermediate temperatures. Many cooks use the mesophilic culture more than any other type.

1.    Start with 2 cups of FRESH store bought cultured buttermilk (it will say cultured on the carton).

2.    Let the buttermilk reach room temperature or about 70 degrees F.

3.        Allow it to ripen for 6-8 hours at room temperature.  

Note:  If you take it out of the refrigerator after supper, put it in a container with a lid, leave it out over night, it will be ready to work with by the next morning.  The buttermilk will now be thicker and sourer than what you started out with.  It should have the consistency of fresh yogurt.  If it doesn't, let it sit for a few more hours.

4.    Shake or stir the culture well.  Pour this culture into a clean ice cube tray, full sized.  Put it in your freezer.  Once it is solidly frozen, separate and remove cubes from tray and place in a zip-lock freezer bag or a container with a lid.  

5.        Each cube is about 1 ounce of mesophilic starter for future recipe purposes.  Label the container so you don't get it mixed up with other cultures.  Add thawed cubes to your recipes as required (thawing takes about 30 seconds in the microwave).  Cubes will keep for at least a month and probably as much as three months or more in the freezer, depending on how well you have them sealed.

To make starter the next time, add one thawed cube to 2 cups of fresh milk, mix thoroughly with a wire whisk.  Allow to stand at room temperature for 16-24 hours or until the consistency of fresh yogurt and freeze as above.

Thermophilic Culture

Cheese cultures inoculate your milk with friendly bacteria.  This gives the cheese its flavor, and helps coagulate the milk and turn it into curds.  Thermophilic culture is used for cheeses cooked at higher temperatures.   

1.    Heat 2 cups of fresh milk to 165 degrees.  Be careful not to heat it too high or scorch the milk, then let cool to room temperature or at least down to 125 degrees.  If you are sure of your milk source, pasteurizing as above is optional; and you can start with 2 cups of fresh milk.

2.    Add one heaping tablespoon of FRESH yogurt, homemade or store bought.  If you buy from the store, make sure it says "live and active culture" on the box -- and it must be plain yogurt.  You can add a couple of tablespoons if you wish.  Mix it into the milk thoroughly.

3.    Keep the mixture at 110 degrees F for 8-10 hours or until a firm yogurt has set.  

Put the mixture in a sealed, water-tight container, mason jar, zip-lock bag, etc., then put 110 degree water in your crock pot.  Put the container with the culture into the water, put the lid on your crock pot, set it on low, and leave it alone.  You may want to experiment with your crock pot to make sure the low setting will keep it at 110 degrees.  Since we started this, my husband bought me a yogurt machine; so now I just use that.  It can also be done with the same type of water bath method on the lowest setting of your electric range.

4.    Pour the culture into a clean full sized ice cube tray and place in the freezer.  Once frozen, separate the cubes and put them in a sealed container or freezer bag.  Label the container so you don't get it mixed up with your other cultures.

5.        One cube is about 1 ounce of thermophilic starter.  Add thawed cubes as needed to your recipes.  30 seconds in the microwave will thaw a cube.  Cubes will keep for somewhere between one and three months (maybe more) in the freezer, depending on how well you have them sealed.  

To make more starter, simply thaw one cube and add that instead of the fresh yogurt using this same recipe .

Cottage Cheese

Note:  Do NOT use aluminum or cast iron.  Use only stainless steel or enamelware pans to make this recipe in.  For some reason, if you use aluminum especially, this recipe will NOT turn out (and many other cheese recipes won't either).

1.    Start with one gallon fresh milk, raw or room temperature or refrigerator temperature.

2.    Mix 4 ounces of mesophilic starter culture into your milk.

3.    Dissolve rennet in 1/4 cup cool water.  Use 1 junket tablet, or 1/4 tablet regular rennet, or 1/4 teaspoon liquid rennet.  Mix rennet into the milk thoroughly using a wire whisk, stir for at least 5 minutes.

4.  Cover and set aside to ripen for at least 20 hours at room temperature (normally 70 degrees F or above).  The milk will be a firm curd within that 20 hours, but the full 20 hours is needed to develop the correct flavor.  If you put it aside at about 10 p.m., then it is ready to work with by 6 a.m. the next morning.  More than 20 hours (up to 24 hours, for example) is fine, but less will not work.  

5.  After 20 hours, cut the curds into 1/2 inch cubes.

6.    Cover and Allow curds to sit and firm up for about 15 minutes.

7.    Over the next 30 minutes, cook slowly and slowly raise the temperature of the curd to 110 degrees F.  Pan should be uncovered for this.

8.    Cook for an additional 45 minutes at 110 degrees F, stirring often enough to prevent matting or clumping.  By this time, the curds should have greatly shrunken and sunk to the bottom of the pan.  Keep in mind, the more you stir, the smaller curds you will get.  If you like large curd cottage cheese, use a slotted spoon to stir...  If you like small curd, use a wire whisk to stir.  Don't over stir, though, or your cheese will turn into mush...

9.    Line a colander with your cheesecloth and drain the curds, allowing them to drain for 5 minutes.

10.    Lift the curd filled cheesecloth from the colander and repeatedly dunk into a bowl of ice cold water for at least 3 minutes.  Drain curds again and place in a bowl or container with lid.  

11.        Add about 1/4 cup milk to curds.  Season to taste with salt or herbs, whatever you wish.    

Easy Ricotta

This is a good recipe to use in your lasagna.

1.  2 quarts fresh milk (cool or room temperature). 

2.  1 teaspoon citric acid powder dissolved in 1/4 cup cool water.  Stir into milk for about 20 seconds.

3.  3 tablespoons red wine vinegar.  Add to milk and stir.

4.  Heat milk to 88 degrees F, stirring occasionally.

5.  1/2 junket rennet tablet, dissolved in 1/4 cup cool water.  Stir into milk, and shut off heat.

6.  Cover and let milk sit for 1 hour.

7.  Drain curds in cheesecloth lined colander or cheesecloth bag.  Gather corners, tie together (hair ties work well for this), and hang bag until it stops dripping.

8.  Add herbs/spices to taste.  One may use garlic powder, onion powder (not salt), parsley, and basil.  One may also add about 1/4 cup of cold milk back into the cheese and 2 ounces of mesophilic starter.  This will be your personal preference. So experiment!

Fresh Whey Ricotta

1.  2 gallons fresh whey, no more than an hour old.

2.  Heat to 200 degrees F.

3.  Turn off the heat while stirring and add 1/4 cup vinegar.  (any kind of vinegar will work, cider or white or even red wine vinegar).

4.  Line a colander with very fine cheese cloth or butter muslin.  Carefully pour the pot of whey into the colander and allow to drain.

5.  When the cheesecloth is cool enough to handle, gather the corners of the cloth and tie, then hang to drain for several hours.  A good thing to use is a drawstring bag.

6.  When the cheese stops draining, place cheese in bowl and add salt and herbs to taste.  You may add garlic powder and onion powder at this time, along with parsley and basil, especially if you will use ricotta in lasagna.  You can also add a small amount of milk to this to give a moister, richer cheese.  Also, if you add a few ounces of mesophilic culture, it will enhance the flavor.

7.  Because this recipe is made using whey, it is a low yield recipe and will only make 1-2 cups of cheese.  Refrigerate cheese until used.  It will keep up to a week in the refrigerator.

Goat Milk Shake

1 Cup Milk frozen in ice cubes
1 Cup Whole Goat Milk
Honey to taste
1/2 tsp. Vanilla (or other flavoring)
optional fruit of choice
if milk is separated add up to 1/4 Cup of goat cream

Combine in blender and blend on highest speed for 3 minutes or until frothy and smooth. Drink immediately.

Yogurt Cheesecake

Crust:
1 Cup Flour
1/2 Cup Butter
1/4 Cup Brown Sugar

Filling:
1 Quart Homemade Goat Yogurt
1 Cup (or to taste) Sugar
2 T. Gelatin
1 tsp. Vanilla

Dissolve gelatin in 1/2 Cup boiling water, then add to yogurt. Stir in vanilla and sugar then pour into crust and refrigerate. Use your favorite thickened fruit or pie filling as a topping.  

GOAT MILK FUDGE

2 1-oz squares unsweetened chocolate
3/4 cup fresh goat milk
2 cups sugar
1 tsp light corn syrup
2 Tbsp butter
1 tsp vanilla

Melt the chocolate in the milk.
Add sugar and corn syrup, and cook slowly, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves.
Cook gently until softball stage (234°F), stirring frequently.
Remove from heat and add butter.
Cool at room temperature without stirring until lukewarm (110°F).
Add vanilla, beat vigorously until fudge becomes very thick and loses its gloss.
Quickly spread in buttered pan.
When firm, cut into squares.
Makes about 2 dozen pieces.
Nut lovers, go crazy! Add ½ to 1 cup just before spreading into a buttered pan.

Cajeta (Mexican Caramel Candy)

  • 3 quarts goat milk
  • 2 tablespoons cornstarch
  • 3 cups sugar
  • ¼ teaspoon baking soda

Dissolve baking soda and cornstarch into 1 cup milk. Stir well to dissolve any lumps. Add rest of milk and add sugar. Bring mixture to boil, stirring constantly while cooking. Cook until the mixture is thick and looks like caramel sauce. Pour into jars, cool, and refrigerate. This makes a great topping for ice cream and makes a delicious apple dip!

 

Goat Milk Fudge # 2

  • 3 cups sugar
  • 2/3 cup goat milk
  • 3/4 cup margarine
  • 6 oz. chocolate chips
  • 7 oz. marshmallow creme
  • 1 tsp. vanilla flavoring

Combine sugar, milk and margarine in heavy quart sauce pan. Stirring constantly, bring to full rolling boil. Reduce heat to medium and continue boiling five minutes. Remove from heat and stir in chocolate chips until melted. Add marshmallow creme and vanilla, beating until well-blended. Pour into greased 9 X 13 pan. Cool at room temperature. You can also add nuts, if you wish.

PEANUT BUTTER GOAT'S MILK FUDGE

1 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
1 cup granulated sugar
3/4 cup evaporated goat's milk
1 tablespoon light corn syrup
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup creamy peanut butter
1 tablespoon butter, frozen
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup freeze-dried or cocktail peanuts, chopped

Put all ingredients except peanut butter, vanilla extract, butter and nuts into a 1-quart saucepan. Grease an 8-inch square pan. Put 1/2 inch water into kitchen sink.

Dissolve sugar, stirring constantly with wooden spoon over low heat until sugar is dissolved. Gritty sounds will cease, and the spoon will glide smoothly over the bottom of the pan. Increase heat to medium and bring to a boil. Wash down any crystals that may have formed with pastry brush dipped in hot water, using as little water as possible. Reduce heat while retaining the boil. Stir no more than necessary.

Test in ice-cold water when mixture thicken and bubbles become noisy. A ball, formed in ice water, should hold its shape until heat from your hand begins to flatten it and should be slightly chewy. Temperatures are very approximately so watch the bubbles and the thickening of the mixture. On the average, the temperature should be 234 degrees F to 240 degrees F.

Remove saucepan from heat and place it in the sink. Add, without stirring, frozen butter, peanut butter and vanilla extract, then allow to cool. 

Stir when lukewarm and "skin" forms on top (110 degrees F). Stir fudge thoroughly but vigorously by hand, with electric mixer, or in food processor. Pause frequently to allow fudge to react. Watch for fudge to thicken, lose its sheen, become lighter in color or streaked with lighter shades, give off some heat, and suddenly stiffen. If mixing by hand, fudge will "snap" with each stroke; by mixer, mixer waves will become very distinct; by food processor, fudge will flow sluggishly back to center when processor is stopped. 

Add nuts before fudge totally candies. Pour, score and store when cool in airtight container in refrigerator or at room temperature.

Yields 1 pound. The recipe is easily doubled and can be frozen.

Goat’s Milk Yogurt Ice Cream

1 Quart Goat's Milk Yogurt

1 Cup Goat's Milk

1/2 Cup Sugar

1 Teaspoon Vanilla

Optional: Chocolate, nuts, fruit (strawberries, peaches...etc.)

Heat milk and sugar in sauce pan until sugar is dissolved. Add vanilla and any other optional flavorings. Stir yogurt into cooled milk mixture. Pour the mixture in container(s) and freeze for an hour or two (until the mixture is slushy). Stir or whisk and return to freezer. I usually whisk a couple of times while it's freezing. It’s ready to eat when it's frozen solid, or let it thaw a little and have a wonder yogurt shake!

To Make Goat Milk Yogurt at Home

Start with fresh, un-pasteurized, goat milk that has been produced in a sanitary manner. Heat milk to 108 degrees Fahrenheit. As a starter culture (good bacteria), you can either use   plain yogurt or a freeze-dried culture purchased from a health or natural food store. If you use store bought yogurt, buy the freshest possible, as it will have more active bacteria. In addition, use yogurt from a new cup and use a clean spoon to add it to the milk. Use l Tablespoon per quart of milk or if using a freeze-dried culture, follow package directions.

After the culture has been added, you must incubate the milk at 104-108 degrees. To do this, you can use a home yogurt maker or devise something on your own. Some people use a heating pad wrapped around a jar, put it in the oven on low, or a jar in a crock-pot. What ever you use, experiment with water and a thermometer before you actually make the yogurt to be sure you can hold the milk at the required temperature. Incubate for 6-8 hours depending on your taste. When done incubating, chill the yogurt before eating being careful not to agitate or move the yogurt much until it is well chilled.

Goat milk will not get as thick as cow milk yogurt. In addition many cow yogurts add powdered milk to thicken the yogurt. We use a small amount of tapioca (natural from the cassava root) in our Redwood Hill Farm yogurt. You can use whatever suits you to thicken the yogurt or enjoy a yogurt drink.

NO-BAKE RASPBERRY CHEESECAKE

1 box frozen raspberries
2 cups fresh plain goat cheese
1 packet unflavored gelatin
1/3 cup sugar
1 cup milk (preferably goat milk)

Drain the raspberries, reserving liquid.
Heat the liquid and stir in the gelatin and sugar until dissolved.
Add milk.
Put into blender with cheese and raspberries. Blend until smooth.
Pour into a baked pastry or graham crumb pie shell.
Refrigerate for at least 4 hours.

Goat's Milk Pie Crust:  

(makes 5 pie crusts.   It can be kept chilled in the refrigerator for up to a week.  If you freeze the dough, you can still thaw it and roll it out. Also, you can roll it out, place in pie pans, put in zip-lock bags and freeze it that way too.  It's an easy recipe to make, easy to roll out, easy to work with.  The dough will stay flaky no matter how much you handle it.  It will shrink a bit in the pie pan so let it rest for about 5 minutes after you get the crust in the pan before you trim it and flute it )

  •   4 cups unsifted flour (any flour, including wheat will do)

  •  1 Tablespoon Honey

  •   2 teaspoons salt

  •  1 3/4 cups shortening

  •   1 Tablespoon white or cider vinegar

  •   1 large egg

  •   ½  cup goat milk

Mix the flour and salt together in a large bowl.  Add shortening and cut in until ingredients are crumbly.  In a small bowl, beat together milk, vinegar, honey, and egg.  Combine the two mixtures and stir with a fork until all ingredients are moistened. 

Roll out and use as any ordinary pie crust dough. 

Quick and Easy Mozzarella Cheese

This recipe is a quick, simple, easy recipe to make a 2-lb block of mozzarella cheese:

Ingredients:

1.  2 gallons of cool milk, either fresh & raw or pasteurized and cooled.

2.  Citric acid powder.  2 ½  very level teaspoons of citric acid powder dissolved in 1/4 cup of cool tap water.  Mix into the cool milk for 2 minutes.

3.  Heat milk to 88 degrees F.

4.  Rennet ½ teaspoon liquid rennet (or 1/2 tablet regular rennet OR 2 junket tablets).  Dissolve rennet in 1/4 cup cool tap water.  Add this into the milk and stir for 14-20 seconds.  Cover your pot with a lid and allow milk to remain still for 12-15 minutes while it coagulates.  

5.  Cut the curd into cubes, around 1/2 inch in size.  Let cut curds remain undisturbed for 5 minutes.  Apply low heat and stir gently so as to keep curds separated.  The curds will shrink as the whey is expelled from them in this step.  Slowly heat the curds to 108 degrees over about 10-15 minutes time.  Then shut off the heat and continue to stir every few minutes for an additional 20 minutes.

6.  Drain curds in a colander for about 15 minutes.  You can dip or pour them out of the pan and save the whey to make ricotta if you wish, or save it for the pigs or chickens, or throw it out.  After the curds sit for 15 minutes, they will be stuck together in a colander shaped clump.  Cut this into strips about 1 inch by 1 inch cross section.  Lay the strips in a criss-cross fashion in a large bowl.

7.  Mix 1/4 cup salt in ½  gallon of water and heat to 170 degrees.  Heat this water up while stirring the curds for about 15 minutes in step 5 above.  Add the salt water to the bowl with the curds in it, make sure it is enough to cover the curds.  

8.  Using a wooden spoon or a pair of them, begin to stretch the curds in an upward motion (sort of like stretching taffy only stretch it with the spoons).  It will begin to get stringy and will look plastic and shiny.  Stretch it for about 10 minutes, then place the whole thing on a board and knead it just like you would bread dough, shaping it into a ball.  This takes the excess moisture out of your cheese.  Place the cheese in a plastic mold.  You can place your plastic mold in a bowl of cold water until its firm and cold or just put a lid on it and place it in the refrigerator overnight.  It's now ready to eat.  You can eat it in chunks or slices or grate it and cook with it.  

To store, place in zip-lock bag or plastic wrap and refrigerate.

NOTE:  If you want salt-free cheese, you can stretch it in the hot water without the salt, but the flavor is better with the salt.  

Goat’s Milk Sauce

This recipe was apparently used by the Romans in Britain.

250 ml/9floz goat's milk
100g/3 oz white bread

Pour the milk into a saucepan.

Remove the crust from the bread and cut the remainder into small pieces.

Boil the milk and bread together for about 40 minutes or until the mixture thickens so that it resembles double cream.

Put the resulting mixture to a food-processor and blend until smooth.

Pour the mixture into a bowl and place in the fridge for about an hour.

Serve chilled as a dip.

Goat Milk Soap  

2.5 oz Coconut Oil

3 oz Olive Oil

4 oz Palm Oil

2.5 oz Shea Butter *

5 oz Goat Milk (fresh or powder reconstituted in water)

1.65 oz Sodium Hydroxide-Lye (6% lye discount)

0.5 to .75 oz Fragrance, depending on personal preference

    Freeze your goat milk first. Ice cube trays or Ziploc baggies are a great way to freeze the milk. Melt the frozen milk by pouring the lye into it a little at a time, stirring between additions. Proceed with your favorite soap making technique. This recipe will work for either cold process or crock pot hot process. This recipe makes approximately 1 pound.

  • Shea Butter moisturizes and heals.  Because of its amazing skin care and healing properties, Shea butter has been used for centuries in parts of Africa; now Shea butter is available to the rest of the world.  It can be purchased many places over the internet

Hopefully, you will have a good running start on your goat milk recipes.  There is an extreme amount of pleasure when one makes one’s own food, either by preparing it, or growing it, to say nothing of knowing exactly what is in it and where it came from.

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